Installing Gear Drive 308 Lower

Installing Gear Drive 308 Lower Rating: 4,3/5 1753reviews

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Installing Gear Drive 308 Lower

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Your entire Mustang's rear consists of your axles, the gear housing, a power transfer device (IE a spool, LSD, posi-unit, etc.), and of course the ring and pinion gear set. Without getting too much into the technical details of how gears work, they convert the power coming from your driveshaft to power needed to turn your wheels. Gears are referred to by ratios, such as 3.31 gears. This means the driveshaft needs to turn 3.31 times in order to turn your tires once. People upgrade to numerically higher gears because increasing this number gives your engine more leverage and makes it easier to accelerate faster. Higher gears, such as 4.10 gears, can be referred to as a steeper gear. A set of 4.10 gears will also result in a decrease of your top speed which is why they can also be referred to as shorter gears.

As we’ve established the numerically higher the gear ratio is, the easier it is to get the vehicle moving and better accelerating, but subsequently lowers top speed. Why does it lower top speed? Keep in mind our V8 engines have a finite RPM limit. Consider this simplified example, where we do not take the transmission into consideration (for the sake of the example, the engine is connected directly to the differential). If the engine has a rev limit of 6000 RPM and the axle ratio is 3.08, then at 6000 RPM the wheels will be turning 1948 RPM (6000/3.08). Say the car had a numerically higher axle ratio of 3.55, then our final wheel speed would be 1690 RPM, which is less than the top speed of the 3.08 axle ratio.

Installing Gear Drive 308 Lower

There are many reasons, but the most common on a late model Mustang is to get your car into the power band faster, or like mentioned above, to accelerate faster. The cause for such sluggishness, at least for the late model Mustangs is when Ford switched from the 5.0L pushrod motor to the 4.6L modular motor. A common complaint was that the new motor was slower off the line.

From the lower receiver to the upper. Drive the roll pin through the bolt release and seat it slightly below the surface of the. Installing A Collapsible Stock. Made to mil-spec standards, our lower receiver with kit installed allows for an aftermarket buttstock to be installed. The buffer retainer, buffer retainer spring.

This is because the 4.6L does not start making its torque until higher up in the RPMs unlike the 5.0L. Changing to a steeper gear will get that pig out of its blanket, and really wake it up off the line. By changing the ratio, you are not actually changing any power levels, but you are manipulating the available torque. This is why it’s considered the best bang for your buck mod. No actual power changes, but there can be a huge difference in performance and race times after swapping gears. If you are plenty happy with the way your Mustang drives, there is absolutely no need to change the rear gears.

Most owners tend to choose a 3.55, 3.73, or 3.90 for a Mustang that is daily driven. If you are serious about speed, then you might consider the 4.10 or a 4.30. However, the higher the ratio the faster you will accelerate, but it will also result in much higher engine RPMs when cruising on the highway (this handy will show you what your Mustang's estimated RPMs will be at cruise). You'll also be sacrificing your top end speed and some fuel economy. If highway gas mileage is a major concern, a good compromise is a lower ratio such as 3.55 or 3.73. Also note changing your rear gear will affect your speedometer readings, and to correct them you will need a handheld tuner.

For ‘Stangs equipped with an, it is recommended to go with either 3.73s or 4.10s. This is because the torque converter and different gear ratios inside the transmission itself. Automatic transmissions exhibit more slip and power loss due to their greater complexity, therefore a shorter gear is necessary to overcome these effects. Automatic cars tend to be heavier than their manual brethren, and thus suffer somewhat from that as well. For heavily modified naturally aspirated engines, forced induction, and big-shot nitrous cars, what gear ratios to buy is actually a trick question. There are many factors that come into play, and it is best to talk to the shops that did the work on your engine, transmission, and chassis to find out what ratio to use.

Gearing for Performace: Autocross and Road Racing. Choosing gears for autocross/road racing can be similar, yet different from one another.

One major item to consider is the course itself (one will primarily be racing on). The general idea is to remain in gear for the majority of the track; as little as possible. Shifting consistently slows down times by not putting the power to the wheels. Somethings to consider for proper gear selection can be items as average course speed, distance, the degree of turns, etc. 3.73's tend to be a popular choice, but it really comes down to a variety of factors.

Your best bet is talking to people with similar Mustang's to yours to get an idea what works best. Some additional options to squeeze every little advantage out of a new gear install are to have the outer ring lightened. This process removes about 1 lb to 2 lbs of rotating weight. Other options include cryogenic treatment for some additional strength, and/or micro blue coatings that help in lubrication. What Gear Ratios Does My Mustang Have Stock? Over the years, Mustangs have been offered with a myriad of gear ratios, so figuring out which ones are in your car can be tough. Especially with late model Mustangs, it can be difficult to figure out what gears your Mustang has since Ford has offered everything from 3.31s to 3.73s from the factory 2011 and up.

Typically, the stock ratio is on the build sheet, or could be on a sticker on the door panel or glove compartment. You can also find the gear ratio stamped into the differential cover or written on to it from the factory, but these aren't always visible and can be difficult to locate.

Using a VIN decoder can help and as a last resort you can go to a dealer and have them check to tell you. If you suspect the gears already may have been changed, you can MacGyver it by jacking up the rear end, spin the tire one time and count how many revolutions the driveshaft made (it’s a good idea to use white-out or a sharpie to make a reference point on the ). Or, remove the differential cover and count the teeth. Just be sure you know what you are starting with. If you’re starting with 3.55s and feel they are not enough, it’s hard to say going with 3.73s will rock your world, as it is only an incremental step. Below is a breakdown of Mustang gear ratios by year. *1979-1993: The 3.08 rear gears also came in the 1993 Cobra.

The 3.27 rear gears also came in the non-turbo, four cylinder engines with a 7.5' rear diff. The 3.45 rear gears DID NOT come in the 1985-1986 SVO.

Installing Asterisk On Synology Ds here. The manual turbo coupes came with 3.55 rear gears, but the automatic turbo coupes came with 3.73 rear gears. *1994-1998: Cobras have 3.08 rear gears, but the Cobra R Mustangs came with 3.27 rear gears.

*2010-2014: The axle codes are as follows - BB is 3.73, CC is 2.73, DD is 3.55, GG is 3.31, and YY is 3.15. *2015-2016: The 3.55 rear gears are options on the V6 and the V8, but 3.15 and 3.31 are the standard gears respectively. Speedometer Calibration and Transmission Shift Points. You have a couple of options as far as correcting your Mustang's speedometer and odometer reading. Depending on the year of your Mustang, the correction can be done by installing a speed calibrator, reprogramming with a chip or tuner, or installing the adjustment gear available through Ford racing. A requires the use of a chip or handheld tuning device such as the SCT Eliminator, X3 PowerFlash, or LiveWire tuner.

Your dealer will create a custom tune that specifically calibrates your speedometer and if you have an automatic, it will calibrate your transmission's shift points. This method will work on all Mustangs with computer controlled electronic gauges (1999 Mustangs). Changing rear gears on any vehicle is a very complex task. While it is straight forward upon first glance, the precision and time it takes to complete the job can be overwhelming. If one does not utilize the proper equipment (measuring device, torque wrench, beam type torque wrench, slide hammer, etc) the job can be almost impossible to do correctly. If installed incorrectly, gears can have improper, premature wear. As a result from improper installation, they can also whine and be quite noisy. Driver License Place In Memphis Tn On Shelby Drive.

Improper installation is easier to accomplish than a of the gears; a simple micrometer off the correct backlash can cause improper wear. • 1979-1985 V8s: 7.5 • 1986-2018 V6 & EcoBoost 7.5 • 1987-2018 Mustang GT and LX - 8.8 • 1999-2001 & 2003-2004 IRS Mustangs: 8.8 From 1979-1985 Mustang's came with the 7.5' rear. Up until 2011, the 7.5' was factory for everything without a V8.

The 8.8' rear was the differential of choice for the V8 engines (4.6, 5.0, and the 5.4). After 2011 the 3.7L V6 and the Coyote powered Mustangs shared the 8.8'. The Mustangs with IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) under them also came with the 8.8' rear end (99-01 and 03-04). Granted, people change out the stock for a number of reasons. One way to tell the difference is by the cover gasket and the pinion gear splines. The 7.5' rear has two flat edges on the gasket whereas the 8.8' is mostly round with two divots. Lastly, the 7.5' pinion has 28 splines, and the 8.8' has 30 splines.

Keep in mind if you have a 7.5 differential it can't accommodate 8.8 diff gears. You can, however, get the same ratios as those found in the 8.8 diffs. In other words, your V6 can house the same ratio as a GT. Up until 2011, the V6 models had different rear ends than their 8 cylinder counterparts. A 2010 older V6 Mustang has a 7.5 rear end. As a result, they have their own gears (although the same size at the 8 cylinder 8.8 rear ends). Therefore, you can use V6 gears on all V6 Mustangs from 1994-2010.

However, a 2011-2014 gear from a V6 will not be compatible with a 2010 and older model. V8 models use 8.8 rear ends and are interchangeable between all V8 models and V6 models from 2011 to the current production year. The whole point of a is to get power to tires with traction.

Limited slip differentials make it so your Mustang can use both rear tires to push forward rather than one, making winter months a bit easier to deal with. LSDs are also popular for drifters since both tires spin in a drift which not only looks cooler, but makes it easier to swing out the back end. The easiest way to tell if your Mustang's LSD needs a rebuild is to do a burnout and have a friend tell you if both tires are smoking or if just one is spinning. If it's just the one, it's time for a rebuild. Do I Want a Traction-Lok Rebuild Kit? Mustang Specs By Year • 2017 • 2016 • 2015 • 2014 • 2013 • 2012 • 2011 • 2010 • 2009 • 2008 • 2007 • 2006 • 2005 • 2004 • 2003 • 2002 • 2001 • 2000 • 1999 • 1998 • 1997 • 1996 • 1995 • 1994 • 1993 • 1992 • 1991 • 1990 • 1989 • 1988 • 1987 • 1986 • 1985 • 1984 • 1983 • 1982 • 1981 • 1980 • 1979 • Shelby GT500 • 2013-2014 Shelby GT500 • 2010-2012 Shelby GT500 • 2007-2009 Shelby GT500 • SVT Cobra • 2003-2004 SVT Cobra • 1999-2001 SVT Cobra • 1996-1998 SVT Cobra • 1994-1995 SVT Cobra • 1993 SVT Cobra • Bullitt • 2008-2009 Bullitt • 2001 Bullitt • 2003-2004 Mach 1. FORD, FORD MUSTANG, FORD F-150 & F150, MUSTANG GT, SVT COBRA, FORD LIGHTNING, SUPERCREW, SUPERCAB, POWER STROKE, TRITON V8, MACH 1 MUSTANG, SHELBY GT 500, COBRA R, BULLITT MUSTANG, SN95, S197, V6 MUSTANG, FOX BODY MUSTANG, AND 5.0 MUSTANG ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF FORD MOTOR COMPANY.

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