Terdapat ratusan picture style tersebar di internet yang siap anda download dan masukan ke 3 slot. Apakah picture style dari kevin wang bisa digunakan di mode.

I had to use JPEG to capture continuous bursts of the acrobatic show below. Shooting RAW would have been best, but because of the sheer number of burst shots captured and the very large file size of RAW, not all of the performance can be captured and saved on the memory card.

This is the main disadvantage of RAW and so I had to shift to shooting exclusively in JPEG format only. Speaking of jpeg, I have devised 3 custom picture styles to minimize postprocessing or to eliminate postprocessing altogether.

I like these picture styles so much that I no longer shoot RAW as much as I used to. Here is an illustration. The first photo is the default Canon 'standard' picture style while the next one is the JPEG output from my 'DRO3' custom picture style: DRO1 - lifts shadows but retains similar highlight characteristics as Canon's 'faithful': DRO2 - lifts shadows but with some highlight compression, lowering somewhat, overall picture contrast as compared to DRO1: DRO3 - for extremely contrasty situations; my 'favorite' custom picture style mode. Lifts shadows and maximizes highlight retention without producing abrupt clipping in the highlights which you will see with the Canon picture styles when contrast is set too low (at -4): The black levels have been adjusted for photoprinting so they may look grayish on some monitors but will come out black in a photo print.

Sparkey2 wrote: Like you mentioned, certain monitors may not show your hard work as well as others and I think mine is one of those. When I look at the images shot with the custom settings they look like they need contrast or as you said grey and i'll add haze to that. But if they print fine then that's all that really matters. Glad your happy with the results and thanks for the show. Paul Hi Paul, when I do almost always print so I leave the contrast in my DRO1, DRO2 and DR03 custom picture styles at the default '0' setting. On an LCD monitor, they can look 'low contrast' with gray looking blacks similar to flat and super flat profiles like 'Marvel's picture styles' or 'Technicolor picture styles'. If you print them however, or use them for movie capture the blacks look much better.

For LCD/LED monitor viewing (which don't produce blacks as accurately as CRT or Plasma monitors do), setting the contrast in the custom picture styles to +2 to +4 will produce blacker blacks and the contrast you want without looking as inky black as the standard Canon picture styles. You can still try downloading the.pf2 files and adjust the contrast as needed much like when you download the 'Marvels' and 'Technicolor' picture styles, where contrast is normally low but which you can increase the contrast in camera (by moving the contrast slider) for a more contrasty appearance for LCD monitor viewing only. (You'll notice though that when you print, you'll get inkly blacks as prints have limited dynamic range compared to LCD monitors but have way more resolution: A 4'x6' print requires 2 megapixels which is equivalent to what an HD monitor can produce. Letter sized prints will require more than 6 megapixels.) Don.

GuardianFlash wrote: They look too pale for me. I'm sure others like it. You can download the picture style files and move the contrast slider to +2 to +4. You can do the same for saturation, tone and sharpness.

You can also download 'Marvel's picture styles', 'Technicolor's picture style' or even 'Kevin Wangs' picture styles for comparison. (If you're not familiar with them, just Google them.) These picture styles I've created are for typical indoor/social occasion/travel snapshots in high contrast scenes, natural light scenes (less than perfect lighting, no flash) and also for recording movies with HDSLR's.

They can come in handy if you don't want to shoot RAW or if you really need to capture everything as fast as possible as in an acrobatics show and you have limited card storage or your dSLR is not one of those 'pro' level ones with wicked RAW shooting capabilities and speed. I was hoping to encourage all Canon dSLR users who have not used picture styles, to really make use of this Canon feature. It is way TOO USEFUL to be neglected even if you shoot RAW and especially if you PRINT photos (what look goods on monitor does not always look good on print and vice-versa) or record movies too. Picture styles enable one to minimize/eliminate postprocessing out of camera and it can be applied to files captured in RAW.

In certain instances when RAW just isn't possible (due to buffer limitations, RAW speed and memory card storage limitations), a custom picture style which gives shadow and highlight latitude in postprocessing can really save a jpeg photo. Would like to try out picture style files from fellow Canon dSLR users too, so anyone can share links to their picture style files (.pf2) with this thread. Olga Johnson wrote: I would say the first reason you cannot shoot raw is because your camera does not have a raw option. Somehow I'm confused though Olga Hi Olga, Here's my idea about this thread in a 'nutshell'. I hope it will clear up the confusion: These picture styles I've created are for typical indoor/social occasion/travel snapshots in high contrast scenes, natural light scenes (less than perfect lighting, no flash) and also for recording movies with HDSLR's. They can come in handy if you don't want to shoot RAW or if you really need to capture everything as fast as possible as in an acrobatics show and you have limited card storage or if your dSLR is not one of those 'pro' level ones with wicked RAW shooting capabilities and speed. I was hoping to encourage all Canon dSLR users who have not used picture styles, to really make use of this Canon feature.

It is way TOO USEFUL to be neglected even if you shoot RAW and especially if you PRINT photos (what look goods on monitor does not always look good on print and vice-versa) or record movies too. Picture styles enable one to minimize/eliminate postprocessing out of camera and it can be applied to files captured in RAW. In certain instances when RAW just isn't possible (due to buffer limitations, RAW speed and memory card storage limitations), a custom picture style which gives shadow and highlight latitude in postprocessing can really save a jpeg photo. Would like to try out picture style files from fellow Canon dSLR users too, so anyone can share links to their picture style files (.pf2) with this thread. Boccherini Flute Concerto In D Major Pdf Files. To Fujifilm Finepix F30: What happened to most of your shots? I only see two of them.

Picture styles are great when you don't have time for post processing shots individually and you just want true to life images. You did a good effort in lifting the shadows. Cableguys Filtershaper Crackle on this page.

My previous attempts resulted in desaturated colours. Have you found that ALO works well in lifting shadows? My XSi doesn't have the same feature that is found in the T1i onwards.

For vivid landscapes I can recommend: Neutral, Contrast -2, Color Tone 0, Saturation +3. A good all rounder for both vivid landscapes and pleasant skin tones is my custom tweak of Autumn Hues. PhilPreston3072 wrote: To Fujifilm Finepix F30: What happened to most of your shots? I only see two of them. Picture styles are great when you don't have time for post processing shots individually and you just want true to life images. You did a good effort in lifting the shadows.

My previous attempts resulted in desaturated colours. Have you found that ALO works well in lifting shadows? My XSi doesn't have the same feature that is found in the T1i onwards.

For vivid landscapes I can recommend: Neutral, Contrast -2, Color Tone 0, Saturation +3. A good all rounder for both vivid landscapes and pleasant skin tones is my custom tweak of Autumn Hues: Thanks for this link.

Will try out your picture style. Canon's Auto Lighting Optimizer (ALO) does not lift shadows as effectively as my custom picture style settings (DRO1, DR02, DRO3) so I don't use it (ALO) anymore. Sometimes I use Canon's ALO at 'High' in ADDITION to my DRO1 picture style to come up with a really nice 'HDR' style picture for extreme shadow recovery and normal highlights. (My DRO3 has better highlight retention than DRO1 or DRO2). I have deleted the other photos and retained only one set [extreme lighting conditions; backlit] where I think the picture styles will really shine, outperforming Canon's ALO (even when set at 'high') by leaps and bounds.

My suggestion for my picture styles (DRO1, DRO2 and DRO3) would be a contrast of +2 (for monitor viewing) and contrast of 0 for printing. I understand majority of the users only view the photos in an LCD monitor (not as consistent/accurate black levels as CRT monitors) and don't intend to print them.

These picture styles of mine were created with 'printing' in mind. For LCD monitor viewing, a contrast of +2 and saturation of +4 should produce that 'velvia' look which many people admire viewing in their monitors but does not print well (due to color clipping and crushed blacks).

Canon's standard picture style Canon's standard picture style + Auto lighting optimizer (HIGH) My DRO1 picture style (updated) Updated download link: My DRO2 picture style (updated) [My new favorite!] Updated download link: My DRO3 picture style (unchanged) [My old favorite] Updated download link: For those who like to shoot black & white: Canon's standard monochrome picture style Canon's standard monochrome picture style + Auto lighting optimizer (HIGH) My custom Black&White picture style Download link: Don.